OWWWWW

So Yesterday (Monday) i started my surf camp... i showed up to the beach at 8:45 ready to go! we get briefed, and then head down to the beach. we practice popping up for about 30 minutes. and then the instructors both seem a little worried about the tide and the size of the waves. so around 9:45 they decide we can try to brave it and go out. so i'm heading out with Bob (the main instructor) and we're paddling along.. and there were alot of 3 and 4 foot waves... WAY TO BIG for a beginer. a 4 footer came along, spun me around and luckily i was holding on for dear life, i rode the wave on my belly... before it decide to rip me from my board and thrash me about... AND THAT my friends was my very first surfing expierience. it was TERRIFYING. after that i caught one.. maybe two baby waves... didn't get up very well but thats besides the point. we headed in for a breather... and i could not catch my breath! that one wave had tried to murder me. Bob thought it was AWESOME i guess he was talking to me telling me to paddle over the next one coming... and he turned around to make sure i heard. and i was GONE.

so on the beach they were saying the tide needed to go out a bit more. we waited on the beach for about an hour. tried to go out again. but this time i went out with Matt (another instructor) he was SUPER cool. and i caught a bunch of much more acceptable size waves. went back in, he watched my pop up and tried to show me what i was supposed to do, and what i was doing on the beach. vs what i was ACTUALLY doing in the water. a few more girls showed up and we made the short trek to another part of the beach where there were not very many monster waves... just little baby ones... JUST THE WAY I WANTED IT! so me and the 4 other girls headed out with the 3 instructors. and they took turns pushing is into the wave to catch it. they didn't want us paddling too much so we wouldn't be too sore for the rest of the week... HA. anyway.. i caught a bunch but couldn't get the right balance, and then i went through a stage when i was nervous to let go of the board. so i'd be squatting... and hanging on! but by the end 1:30 pm i had an AMAZING run. i stood up perfectly carved a teensy bit(on accident) and road the wave in. Matt was behind me and had pushed me in, Bob was on the beach and was watching the whole thing and was IMPRESSED! and then Rusty came in (Bob's son and the third instructor) and told me how awesome that one was. and that was my awesome start to Surf Camp.

I woke up this morning... and i cant move. my triceps are about to burst... that muscle that is like under your armpits and side-boob... that one i think might hurt the worst. my back is SORE and my Abs and core muscles are in much pain. and somehow... i have to get up get moving and drive back to the beach to continue with my lessons... i'm pretty stoke with surfing... the sun can go suck a lemon. cause it killed my face. but i learned my lesson with that the hard way. i would bring my camera and take pictures... but i'm doing this solo and have noone to come take pictures. so if anyone in the san diego county area wants to come and take pictures... i'd love you forever!